Birkuta (ብርኩታ in Tigrigna) is a traditional food of Tigrai, historically consumed by cowboys and salt merchants. It’s made from wheat, sorghum, or other cereal flours, kneaded into a semi-solid dough, and pressed onto a preheated stone to bake over an open fire. Best served with milk, stew, or soup, Birkuta has the unique ability to last for months without spoiling, making it an ideal food for long journeys..
As a young cowboy far from home, longing for a fresh meal from your mother was often just a dream. Survival in the wild meant learning how to endure, much like how a fireman teaches his children instinctively. Cowboys, too, inherit survival lessons from their elders, learning how to manage hunger and face the dangers of the wild.
In this tough environment, I perfected the art of making Birkuta, believing it to be a specialty of the Adiabo lowlands in western and northwestern Tigrai. Later in life, while studying at Kellamino, I discovered that the Arho salt traders, living on the southestern parts Tigrai (Atsbi-Womberta, Wajirat, other parts of Raya), relied on Birkuta just as much as we did. These traders traverse the harsh desert between Afar and Tigrai, transporting blocks of salt mined from the Danakil Depression—the hottest place on Earth. Their journeys, lasting several days, require food that can withstand extreme heat and long durations. Birkuta fits perfectly into their diet.
Birkuta is also a staple among the Irob communities in eastern Tigrai, as well as in Gash Barka and Seraye regions of Eritrea. Its appeal lies in its longevity, easy handling, and resilience to heat due to the intense baking process. It’s a food that demands patience to prepare but rewards with its durability and energy.
For cowboys and Arho traders alike, Birkuta, paired with milk, provides the strength needed to endure the challenges of the wild. It’s no wonder wrestling is a common pastime among these communities, fueled by this enduring source of energy.
በራሕለ ዓድኹም ወሰን ባሕሪ
A poetic phrase common among the Chira Watta, traditional Tigrean genres.
ብርኩታ ቀለብኩም ተረፍ ጓህሪ
The following video on the preparation of Birkuta was produced in Desa’a by RaRa Media. Some of the above photos were also screenshots from the video.